Festival Roundup

December 7th, 2009

It’s the end of the year. Festival time! For some odd reason, the Sahara likes to cram its festivals on top of one another, back to back, at the coldest time of the year. Make sure you bring a warm coat and mittens. Many of the festivals have important cultural and social objectives — see the attached links for more information. Hopefully this year will find a good amount of foreign visitors, not scared of by a few unfortunate but isolated security incidents. But as a friend told me: “We don’t need tourists to have a good time.” The party continues as planned.

Fete du Chameau (Camel Festival)
Tessalit, Kidal Circle, Mali
December 29th, 30th, and 31st, 2009
A lesser known festival, probably due it’s locality (deep in Azawad, near the Algerian border). Expect camel races and music from Tinariwen.
http://www.feteduchameau.webs.com/

The Saharan Nights of Essouk
Essouk, Kidal Circle, Mali
January 2nd, 3rd and 4th, 2010
“The Essouk festival is a three-day celebration of music and culture, aimed largely at a local audience of nomads, but also at festivalgoers from other parts of Mali, Africa and the world.”

*due to financial reasons, this has been shifted to Feb. or March – stay tuned.*
http://www.keltinariwen.org/UK/1-presentation-festival.html

Festival au Desert
Essakane, Timbouctou Circle, Mali
January 7th, 8th, 9th
The large and well known international festival, hosting over 30 music groups. Everyone who’s anyone from Mali and W. Africa — Tinariwen, Amadou and Mariam, Afel Boucoum, Vivian N’dour, Dimi Mint Abba — and quite a few from abroad as well. A special anniversary, celebrating its 10th year.
http://www.festival-au-desert.org/

Festival Tamasonghoi
Bourem, Gao Circle, Mali
January 12th, 13th, and 14th 2010
A new festival, in its debut year. A long list of artists, both Tamashek and Songhai, including Etran Finatawa, Tamikrest, Kanna, Atia, Douma, Amanar, and Azawagh.
http://festivaltamasonghoibourem.unblog.fr/

That ain’t workin’, that’s the way you do it…

December 2nd, 2009

The Tuaregs consist of a variety of tribes, stretching across the center of the Saharan desert, East of Mauritania, across Mali, Algeria, Niger, Libya. In the past, the Western association was with “blue men” in the desert, the fierce resistance to colonization, the romantic myth of the desert nomad. Today it is impossible for the West to speak of Tuareg without the obligatory reference to the Tuareg guitar.

Koma and Attaye, two acoustic guitars in Kidal

The Tamashek guitar, or “ishumar” (A French deriviation of chômeur, or “unemployed”) was borne in the rebellion. After the first rebellion, the youth that had left for Libya for military training in the war with Chad returned to Mali — without any education or opportunity.

Interview with Initriy and Tahieat (French)

Origins are difficult to ascertain, but Tinariwen of Tessalit, Mali are popularly considered the pioneers. The music of Tinariwen is traded across Mali, via the Tamashek. Numbering only 600,000 but stretching over thousands of kilometers — the Malian Tamashek community is like a small town, and everyone knows everyone. But the heart is definitely in the North of the country.

Ishumar guitar music is preferably played with the electric guitar (for its responsive touch, both solo and rhythm) bass, percussion (calabas, djembe, or drum kit), and singing and hand claps. It is almost always played in a pentatonic scale (familiar immediately for the “blues” component), with a droning bass note and syncopated treble that accompanies the singing. One chord is often sufficient. but with tremolos and impressive solos. A friend remarks that tremolo of “false” notes are what separate Tamashek guitar from Sonrai guitar. “It plays better with the way they speak.” And certainly, the language Tamashek is full of bent and ululated vowels, placing it closer to Arabic in sound then with its cousins to the South. While the music has certain roots in traditional Tamashek guitar, the influence of Western music (cassettes of Bob Marley and Jimmy Hendrix most substantially) cannot be ignored. And today, as is common throughout the Sahara, the favorite guitarist amongst the younger generation: Dire Straits.

Talking with a former rebel/musician: “Dire Straits is the number one guitarist for the Tamashek. If he held a concert here…no…all the Tuareg – Algeria, Libya, Niger – would come to Kidal.” Mark Knopfler, are you listening?

Abba and Ahmedou Ag with acoustic guitar, Timbouctou
2
3

Sarid Ag and Doni with electric guitar, Kidal
2

Sonrai sound

November 20th, 2009


En route to Timbouctou, I stop over in Goundam, a nondescript village of the Niger Delta. As I travel with guitar, a young man stops me and asks if he can have a look in the case. “Moi, aussi, je suis un artiste…” His name is Babah Dire (from the town Dire), a recorded artist with a few cassettes and a regular at Essakane, and I shoot the preceding video.

The style of guitar is that which is popularized by Ali Farka Toure; what can be called the Sonrai (or Songhai) folk.* Notably for it’s blues sound, the ever present pentatonic scale, and strong punctuated notes (there are none of the tremolos or false notes as in Tamashek guitar). But it would be difficult to pigeonhole the music. Authenticity is for idealists.

Outside “Obama’s” botique in Niafounke, a guitarist demonstrates the Sonrai folklore.

Souleyman – Ali Farka Cover

Souleyman – A song in the Bambara scale

The village of Tonka lies between Niafounke and Timbouctou, on the bank of the River Niger. It is an exceptionally green place, and exudes a certain friendliness which maybe has something to do with lack of tourism. I spend a few days with a group called Horostar de Tonka, three chauffeurs who when they’re not crisscrossing Northern Mali, retreat to the edge of town and play guitar until the late dark hours (there is no electricity in Tonka, a missed blessing?).

Horostar de Tonka – Chaud!

Alkibar Gignor of Niafounke (previously here) produces a funky interpretation of Sonrai guitar. The following tracks are from a night rehearsal at the Ali Farka Hotel – including lots of dancing, which the microphone may have failed to capture. Imagination required.

Alkibar Gignor 1

Alkibar Gignor 2

Alkibar Gignor 3

* In local usage, Sonrai refers to the language/culture in Timbouctou and its environs, Songhai for Gao.

Mamas, don’t let your babies grow up to be Griots.

November 8th, 2009

While Tuareg rock (Desert Blues, i.e. Tinariwen) is the most known form of Tamashek music abroad, traditional guitar still has a strong place in the North. The traditional guitar is found throughout West Africa, for Peuls, Sonrai, Maures, Tuareg, Sarakoles – respectively named Hodou, Koubour, Tidinit, Teherdent or Hardine (and a four stringed version known as Gambare or Jeli Ngoni for the Bambara).

There are two sizes of the guitar; both are the same form – a three stringed lute of wood hollow body. The guitar is fretless, and the strings are bound to the neck by a wrapped bands of elastic. The larger, with a deeper resonance, is used for “listening” while the smaller, with a brighter and tinnier sound embodies a more lively sound, suitable for dancing. Amplification is achieved with the standard microphone of West Africa – a transducer microphone furnished from the Casio watch. The guitarist sits with a knee bent the guitar held between the legs, a seemingly acrobatic position (photo needed!).

Ali Ag Mooman is a griot from Timbouctou. While the griots still hold a strong role in society (no marriage would be possible without one), they are often marginalized in the market. The traditional music is not sought after with the fervor as the modern sounds.

Ali plays some songs while his brother explains (in French, translations below).

Adernibah

“This is in the desert, there is a group of guitarists that had lost their route, and they played this song for 20 days. Adernibah in Tamashek is people who are lost in the desert. It is a song known in the entire world.”

Two Songs


“This is the first song of the Tuareg. It’s called “Yona”. The beginning of the (Tuareg) guitar, this is it!”

Takoba


“This is from a grand leader, called Hawadine.”

Hawadi

“This is called y’addi. This is the song uniquely for the Tuareg. If there is a war, this song is played. It’s like a drug, this song, and if they hear it they march straight!”

Lastly, a recording of Ali Ag Mooma (thardint), Moussa (Calabass), and myself (guitar) in an evening soiree/cassette recording, performed at his house by the “Gare Goundam.” As the night progresses, all the neighbors trickle in, drawn by the buzzing of the guitar – the best promotion, and how most soirees are “advertised” in the desert towns and the nomad ‘acampaments.’

This is a popular song titled Chebibah, which means “the youth” in Arabic. It was originally composed by an Algerian, but is a standard for Tamashek guitar.

Chebibah

Sing me a song!

October 14th, 2009

Girl by the rice paddies

A French song

Girl by the market with Amadou and Mariam’s Homage to Ali Farka Toure

Girl in Niafounke tries to remember the words

Girl with mother singing Na Hawa Doumbia

Hamadou Traore singing song from the Bi-annal, National Orchestra of Timbouctou

Kids with the Mali National Anthem (sort of French)

Mamadou Boucom with religious chant (Arabic)

Two boys in Timbouctou with ‘caravan song’ (Tamasheq)

Orchestre Dental, the music video

October 5th, 2009

Group Dental from Nouakchott is one of the most interesting bands I’ve had the chance to record and definitely the most unique. The music is distinctly modern, but incorporating a broad range of influences from the traditional scales of the Sahara (Moor, Peul, Soninke) to the imported sounds of their youth (Hendrix, Marley).

Ross from SonicAfrica was in Nouakchott last spring, and shot this video of a rehearsal:

The name of this song is Onakhara, which means “let’s learn” . Baabi Sarr sing this song in soninke , and in this song he encourages Mauritanias people to learn their native languages.

Gnawa, across the desert

September 29th, 2009

They said ‘we behold you as one diligent in your pursuit of much journeying,
On the earth. For a while you stay, and then you journey on your way.’
I said, ‘Were there no benefit to be gained in travelling,
The sun would not change its stations in its heavenly mansions.’

- Al-Tadili recording story of Abu Yahya Abu Bakr b. Mahyu al-Sanhaji

Soudani yalah alah, soudani
Soudani yalah alah, soudani yalah
Soudani ya legnawi soudani
Soudani dawi hali soudani

Pigeons du Sable – Soudani

The Sahara is classically viewed as an impenetrable barrier between North and Central Africa. Classically, or perhaps metaphorically, because it is clearly not the case, and the influences that swept across the sand worked both ways, following the routes of the caravans. Perhaps in no other place is this so evident as in the Saharan music, or that on the edges of the desert, such as the Gnawa (or Gnaoua) music of Southern Morocco.

The Gnawa music possesses a droning rhythm from a luth (haj-hooj), clapping, hand cymbals (krakeb), and the typic call and response singing prevalent. It is not unfair to say the music differs widely from that normally identified as “Moroccan” – and is at once more identifiable with Sonrai (or Songhai) of Northern Mali.

The preceding song was recorded in a village Khamlia (known locally as the “village of the blacks”), 7km south of Merzouga and near the ancient caravan town of Sijilmassa.

*note: due to a short stint in France, the website hasn’t been updated, but i’m currently back in Northern Mali and will updating with renewed frequency as internet permits!*

Lere

August 20th, 2009

In Lere, Mohamed Issa, from the group Tartit, arrives on the tail of a dust storm. He is here for one night, and then departing to play in a marriage “en brousse”. Accompanied by myself and Abou, a young apprentice, we play out by the tent until the early hours.

Mohammad Issa Solo

Mohammad Issa Solo 2

(I should note, for aspiring guitarists – often in the Tuareg and Sori guitar, the first string is tuned up to G, and plays the continuous bass)

jam 1

jam 2

jam 3

The next day, before the dust storm tears through the down, I ask the kids to play some songs. I sing a few too – lots of requests for Akon. Heads are appearing over the wall, and by the time the mother comes home, there’s a regular concert crowd gathered.

Lere 1

Lere 2

A million and one stars

July 29th, 2009


The desert north of the river Niger is a scrubby dry place. Along the border with Mauritanian and Mali, there are a mixture of Maurs, Berbiche, and Tamashek (Tuareg). I meet a group of Kalashnikov carrying youths (military). The zone is in a state of continuous tension, as rebel raids have been frequent and recent as a few months ago. There is a clear division between the Bambara and the Tamashek officers, even though this is likely to be denied.

Ag Said singing independence songs in the truck

I stay a few days in Gargando, a tiny and unassuming village, known in the region primarily for it’s brackish water. The youth have come back for vacation. In the late evening, we sit around and play songs on my guitar.

Night Soiree with youth

Night Soiree 2

Night Soiree 3

During the day, the heat is too oppressive to move. Later, by the afternoon, there is millet to pound and cows to feed. But there is lot of time to sit around too and play with the microphone.

Young girl raps (in tamashek)

Unknown song

At night, under the stars, the old bearded patriarch Abdullahi tells me, in a deep cinematic voice: “In America you sleep in five star hotels. Here in the desert, we have a million and one.” And his laugh bellows out over the white sand.

The end of the world…

July 7th, 2009

I’ve come to Timbouctou to find a Tamashek guitarist named “Aba”. He is from Gargando, and has left music and joined the military. I don’t find him. However, I do meet with Mohamed Ag Abothy (or Mohamed “Bidega”) who plays the bidega, a semispherical wood instrument with attached pieces of steel. Mohamed claims this is a Tamashek instrument (his father made it, his father before him, etc.), but the sound is similar to that found further south – perhaps influenced by the Mande sound?

Bidega 1

Bocar Tandina is a guitarist who plays in the traditional “Sori” style (think Ali Farka Toure). Along with Mohammad (and a percussionist), they make up the group Fafadoby.

Bocar on guitar

Lastly, a street field recording, walking through the old center of Timbouctou (crying children, an agitated drum session, music drifting from a radio…and motorbikes!

Old town